Rendervous in China Town

 

china town, Lagos

 

 

 

 

Like elsewhere, Chinatown has become a brand name in Nigeria, but the complex known for its Chinese goods and services in Lagos has kept a low profile for some time.  In an account of his recent visit to the sprawling Chinese business hub Maduabuchi Ubani writes about its changing environment and how the place is gradually assuming a life of its own


Clad in his white singlet and jeans short to cover just some part of his already tanned skin, it was obvious the day had started quite like every other one for him. Defying the deafening noise from the nearby power generator, he struggled with his handset for a moment. He later gave up on the phone call and concentrated more on fanning himself. Obviously, there was no response from the other end. It was the usual scorching afternoon, one that could virtually darken and milk the living juice out of anyone under its shine without remorse or apology.  While it was difficult to decipher what he was trying to say from a distance, his vibrant sales girls sprang to action at any instruction with active implementation. In what seemed like a reflex action, he courteously flashed a smile to some customers that seemed to inspect some of his wares, pointing at some others goods that might interest them and returned back to his swivel seat once they stepped inside to make some payments.

On sighting the male figure approaching briskly, he wasn’t sure if this stranger was finding his way or just out for some other engagements. Either way, the gentleman before him clearly by all assessments didn’t fall in line with his kind of trade and as such, the discussion would be brief.  His guess turned out to be quite the opposite.

Mr. Lee, an amazing conversationalist in his mid-30s with sparkling eyes and warm mien is among the 50 Chinese that are presently resident in the China town in Lagos Nigeria. Dealing exclusively on ladies wear and jewellery, which he claims to import from China, his seven years in the country has done little to improve his accent and communication skills which he tries to make up for with pidgin and embarrassing grin. In a conversation with  this reporter, Lee was liberal to relive the nostalgic experience of his arrival into the country and although so much might have changed in the last couple of years since he has been in Nigeria, he enthused that the good moments would always live with him.

“My wife and children are in China and I get to visit them so often but Nigeria is my second home and am far relaxed here,” he said.
On his trade which brought him to the country, Lee explained that although activities had nosedived quite unlike what it used to be, things are returning to normalcy. Yes, his optimism was glaring as he noted that “situations come and go just like the uncertainty of the weather patterns.

“China town was the centre of attraction and a tourist site of some sorts, it all changed due to some actions that left most of us with nothing but things can only get better and indeed they are turning for the best. Most of us are still here while others have spread to other parts of the country and very few others have returned home but all in all, I can only insist that it only gets better and this place will soon wear a better look and command respect just like before,” he explained.
Lee’s point of view was that optimism and realism might be two words that often don’t spell gloom and doom but it wasn’t the core reason for the occasion.

The reporter’s day-long lounging at the China town at Ojota, Lagos was borne out of some reasons that just couldn’t sweep under the mind’s carpet of nothingness. In a way, it wasn’t only the name that seemed to heighten the intrigue, neither was it the opportunity or uncertainty of seeing some exhibition of martial art moves by the ‘foreigners’ that quickened the enthusiasm. Rather, it was the huddled  suspense of not only getting to experience  what the Lagos version of a  revered name that seems to be existing in major cities  around looked like but also to verify the gossips and phony tales  that seemed to be gathering momentum and spreading like wildfire. While many gossips bothered on the relative ‘deserted nature’ of the place, others were on the inferiority of wares found there.  It was more than a fact-finding mission or snooping around of some kinds, and an adventure to dispel the sensational tales and enjoy the scenery of the people that pioneered and paddled the course of ancient architecture and civilisation in history.

For a first time visitor to China town, the place represents a kind of a well-guarded castle or a revered temple with deep spiritual representation on one hand and on the other hand it is simply a market.

The reasons for that are not for far-fetched.  The design of the market simply looks a Buddhist temple.
Again, springing from the serenity, then to the well lined parking lot and the peaceful coordination of human activities, it might be confusing if not surreal to compare and liken the place to some kinds of a hub where financial transactions and trading are taking place.

Devoid of the usual hollering by coarse voiced sellers and the popular bell ringing to attract the already worn-out customers that has become the norm associated with all markets in the ever busy  city of Lagos, the experience at China town clearly shows the contrary. The human activity evidenced one of courtesy and orderliness which made it easy and convenient for everyone present to get what they came for.

For those who may have paid little attention or possibly forgotten, Lagos' China Town or China Commercial City was built in 2004. It was however raided in 2006 by the Nigerian Customs authorities and temporarily shut down under claims that the Chinese were selling pirated products with impunity.  Formerly flourishing with wide range of products including textiles, doors, electronics, shoes, bags, books, and films, many vendors had closed shop and returned to China after the incident. Indeed, the range of products on offer had also shrunk, with traders stating that the profitable merchants were those selling shirts, jeans, or shoes.  But today however, the place is receiving a new facelift and steady return of business and a promising progress.  While China town is still home to most Chinese natives who are not selling in the complex but are engaged in other businesses, it has also witnessed the significant influx of Nigerian merchants who have taken shops to showcase their wares around the complex.

Agreeing to the decline in sales and activities due to the shut down experienced at some point, the General Manager of the complex, Mr. Julius Solomon posited that significant and positive changes were taking place because more Nigerians are getting involved in business activities within the complex which is an angle that is receiving attention and showing more prospects.

In a place that accommodates not less than 50 Chinese residents with constant electricity, security, exquisite Chinese restaurant and bars and other necessities, Julius noted that the complex also serves as a meeting point for them (Chinese) to meet once in a while, interact and mingle freely with one another.

According to him, “most Chinese around Lagos come around to play and relax here. It serves as a convergence ground and with their New Year celebration at hand this year, we’ll get to have more of them around. Emphatically, after the shut down, there had been a bit of downward  trend activities, but on a positive note, there has been more significant improvement. Truly we are not where we are supposed to be, but we are not where we used to be. And that’s a good sign.

“Since China Town has come to stay, we believe that things will continue to turn out for the best. What we got recently are students coming in on excursion. We get them almost on daily basis. A lot of foreign people come not only because they want to buy, but because they want to satisfy their curiosity. These are all actions and developments that are pointing in the right direction.”
His advice for people who harbour the notion that the place reeks of inferior goods is that: “what I would say is that, to every cost, there is a quality. You will always get the right value for whatever you buy here. That I can guarantee. If they come with the open mind of getting something affordable and with quality, they will always get it”.

For one who gave his name simply as Lulu, he has spent ten years in Nigeria and that has being an experience worth relishing. Though language differences proved to be tasking at times, the Chinese imported clothes dealer appreciates the warmth and hospitality of the Nigerian citizens.

“I sell clothes imported from China and I get to also travel home once or twice in a year,” he said. He smiled before he chose his next line of sentence: “though the changes since the closure and now are quite noticeable, we still believe things are going in a positive line because Indians and Lebanese are returning to buy wares here and most Nigerians are opening up shops here. I am happy to be In Nigeria and I am grateful for the privilege to contribute to this economy.”

Heading for the exit door and joining other eager passengers to squeeze into the much awaited rickety bus that wouldn’t completely wait, it turned out not to be a wonderful experience and afterall, a lesson of resilience well learnt and an experience worth relishing. With palpable feeling, the unexpected question popped up and gained dominance: Do we have a Nigerian Town in China?

 

 

Source-This Day